Pattern Studio Guide
AI-Powered · Free to Use · No Account Needed
Your custom pattern,drafted in minutes.
Blue Moon’s Pattern Studio is the only free AI pattern maker built for stretch fabric. Enter your body measurements, choose your garment, and receive professionally drafted pattern pieces — with smart fabric layout that minimizes waste and calculates exact yardage.
16
Garment types
AI
Pattern drafting
3x
Nesting passes
Free
Always
How it works
Six steps from garment selection to finished, printable pattern — under 2 minutes
1
🚹Choose your garment
Select from 16 garment types. Each unlocks its own specific measurement fields — a leotard asks for torso girth; leggings ask for thigh, knee, and calf. No irrelevant fields, no guessing.
2
📏Enter your measurements
All in inches. Required fields are marked *. Each field shows a hint for exactly where to measure. Defaults are pre-filled so you can generate a sample instantly without measuring.
3
✂Set design details
Choose construction features (underwire, ruching, lining, boning, pockets), grain direction (vertical, horizontal, bias 45°), seam allowance (¼" to 1"), fabric width, and fabric type.
4
🤖AI generates your pattern
Click Generate. Parametric formulas calculate all pieces from your measurements with seam allowances, grain lines, notches, and fold marks. AI simultaneously writes your personalized expert notes.
5
⬡AI optimizes fabric layout
The 3-pass bin-packing algorithm compares three sorting strategies and selects the layout using the least fabric. Shows efficiency %, waste %, yards needed, and step-by-step cutting instructions.
6
📄Print or download
Print at 100% scale from any printer (tape pages for home printing), or download a high-res 2× PNG. Then shop the recommended Blue Moon fabric and start cutting.
All 16 garment types
Every garment has its own measurement fields, construction options, and fabric recommendation
Bikini Top
Swimwear
Bust, underbust, cup size, torso front, band length, tie length. Triangle, Bandeau, Halter, Underwire styles.
Chlorine-resistant · 6 pieces
Bikini Bottom
Swimwear
Hips, waist, rise, crotch length, leg opening, leg cut. Standard, High-cut, Brazilian, Cheeky.
Crotch length is #1 measurement
One-Piece Swimsuit
Swimwear
Bust, waist, hips, torso girth*, torso front, cup. Scoop, Racerback, Plunge, Ruched options.
Torso girth is THE critical measure
Leggings
Activewear
Waist, hips, thigh, knee, calf, inseam, rise, leg style. Full/7⁄8/Capri/Bike/Short.
8 measurements · 5 pieces
Sports Bra
Activewear
Bust, underbust, cup, band circumference, strap length, impact level.
Impact level shapes structure · 5 pieces
Leotard
Dance / Performance
Bust, waist, hips, torso girth*, torso front, armhole depth, shoulder width.
Negative ease applied auto
Unitard / Catsuit
Dance / Performance
All leotard fields + inseam, thigh, knee, calf. Full-body with legs.
9 measurements · 6 pieces
Crop Top
Tops
Bust, shoulder width, armhole depth, front length, back length. Bralette, Fitted, Wrap options.
4 pieces + binding options
Bodycon Dress
Dresses
Bust, waist, hips, shoulder, front/back length, waist position, hip position. Mini to Maxi.
8 measurements creates curved seam
Maxi Dress
Dresses
Bust, waist, hips, shoulder, full length, waist/hip position, hem flare. Evening, Wrap, Empire.
5 pieces · hem flare control
Nightgown / Slip
Sleepwear
Bust, waist, hips, shoulder, length, waist position. Satin, lace, cowl neck, bias-cut options.
5 pieces incl. bodice lining
Two-Piece Set
Co-ords
Bust, waist, hips, top length, bottom length, shoulder, bottom style. Top + Skirt or Shorts.
5 pieces · matching waistband
Skirt
Bottoms
Waist, hips, hip depth, skirt length, style: Pencil, A-line, Circle, Flared, Pleated.
Pockets optional · 3 pieces
Shorts
Activewear
Waist, hips, thigh, rise, inseam, style: Bike, High-waist, Boardshort, Running, Biker panel.
Inner brief option · 5 pieces
Lingerie / Bodysuit
Intimate
Bust, underbust, waist, hips, torso girth, cup. Snap crotch, underwire, sheer panel options.
10-15% negative ease · 5 pieces
Costume / Couture
Stage / Performance
All 9 measurements. Boning, bustle, train, corset lacing, sequin overlay, tulle underskirt options.
7 pieces · Full structural support
Features in depth
Everything a professional pattern maker or designer needs to know
📐
Parametric Pattern Drafting
Unlike sizing blocks, every dimension is computed from your body measurements using professional pattern making formulas. Change one measurement and the entire pattern updates proportionally. No generic sizes, no grading between sizes.
Industry standard formulas
↕
Grain Lines, Notches & Fold Marks
Every piece includes: directional grain arrows (vertical, horizontal, or bias 45°), balance notches at all assembly points, dashed fold-on-line markers, and seam allowance overlay in ¼", ½", ⅝", or 1".
Professional standard markings
⬡
3-Pass Bin-Packing Nesting
The layout engine runs three independent strategies: sort by height, sort by area, sort by width. All three are tested and the layout with the smallest total fabric length is selected automatically. Rotation is disabled for directional prints, sequins, and velvet.
Similar to professional marker software
🎙
15+ Voice Commands
Garment names, “generate”, “auto nest”, “flip”, “zoom in”, “zoom out”, “show stats”, “print”, “download”, “grain bias”, “fabric width 60”. Works in Chrome and Safari — ideal while your hands are busy measuring or pinning.
Chrome + iOS Safari
🤖
AI Expert Notes (Claude Sonnet)
After generating, the AI pattern maker writes a personalized 3-paragraph assessment: (1) fit notes specific to your measurements, (2) a garment-specific 4-step sewing sequence, (3) a stretch fabric tip for your fabric type. Generated fresh for every pattern.
Powered by Anthropic Claude
🛍
Blue Moon Fabric Matching
Every garment maps to the ideal Blue Moon product: swimwear → Synergy Nylon Lycra (70 colors). Activewear → Recycled Nylon Spandex. Stage/dance → Mystique Foiled Spandex or Solid Velvet. Sleepwear → Satin Charmeuse or Stretch Lace. All include direct shop links.
Direct shop links included
🖶
Print at 100% Scale
A pre-print banner reminds you never to scale to fit. Includes a 1" test square. Toggle grain lines, SA lines, notches, and labels before printing. Choose Letter/A4 (home printer, tape pages) or Large Format (36" roll at a print shop).
Home printer or print shop
⬇
Download as 2x Resolution PNG
Exports the canvas at 2× pixel density for crisp, high-DPI output. Automatically watermarked with Blue Moon Fabrics. Named by garment type for organization: bluemoon-leotard-pattern.png.
2x resolution · Watermarked
📝
AI Cutting Instructions
After every AI layout, a panel shows step-by-step cutting instructions: fold placement, which pieces go on the fold, how to cut mirror pieces, notch snipping technique, and fabric-type-specific guidance.
Generated per session
📈
Fabric Efficiency Stats
Stats tab shows: fabric width, layout length, total piece area, waste area, efficiency %, piece count, seam allowance, grain direction, and estimated yardage rounded up to nearest quarter yard for safe buying.
Stats · Yardage · Efficiency %
📷
Drag, Zoom & Flip Canvas
Touch or click to select. Drag to reposition. Scroll/pinch to zoom (20% to 400%). Flip any piece 180°. Toggle grid, seam allowance, grain arrows, and notches on/off in real time. Fit View resets to 100%.
Touch + mouse · Mobile ready
🌿
7 Fabric Type Constraints
Stretch/Spandex (any dir.), Directional print (one-way), Stripe/Plaid (match), Sequin (single dir.), Plain woven (any dir.), Lace/Mesh (transparency), Velvet (nap locked). Nesting respects these constraints automatically.
Grain-locking for directional fabrics
Built for everyone who sews
Whether you’re starting out or have pattern made for 30 years
✂ Pattern Makers
Professional drafters and graders
- Parametric drafting uses industry-standard seam allowance values
- Grain lines, notches, and fold marks meet RTW production standards
- 3-pass nesting competes with software like TUKAcad for basic garments
- Fabric width slider from 36" to 72" matches real bolt widths
- Export to PNG for inclusion in technical flat packages
📚 Fashion Designers
Designers developing samples and prototypes
- Draft a muslin pattern in under 2 minutes — no CAD software needed
- Construction feature chips let you explore design variations instantly
- AI notes explain fit implications of your measurement choices
- Fabric recommendations link directly to shop — no sourcing research
- 16 garment types cover swimwear, activewear, dance, lingerie, formalwear
🧰 Home Sewists
Makers who want custom fit without guesswork
- Defaults are pre-filled — generate a sample pattern instantly
- Measurement tips explain exactly where to measure on your body
- Sewing sequence guide walks you through assembly step by step
- Yardage estimate with a safe round-up prevents short buying
- Print at home on standard paper — tape pages together
🌟 Costume & Drag Designers
Stage, cosplay, drag, and performance wear
- Costume type supports boning, bustle, peplum, train, corset lacing
- Sequin and directional fabric types lock nesting direction auto
- Unitard/catsuit covers full-body custom-fit stage looks
- Mystique Foiled Spandex and Sequin on Mesh for performance
- AI sewing notes address construction order for structured costumes
Measurement reference
Where to take each measurement and why it matters
| Garment | Key Measurements | Most Critical |
|---|---|---|
| Bikini Top | BustUnderbustCup sizeBand length | Underbust determines band size. Cup shapes dart volume. |
| Bikini Bottom | HipsWaistRiseCrotch lengthLeg opening | Crotch length is #1 for comfort. |
| One-Piece | Torso girth*Torso frontBustWaistHips | Torso girth: shoulder over crotch to shoulder back. Too short = pulls up. |
| Leggings | WaistHipsThighKneeCalfInseam | Thigh + knee + calf create the silhouette. Use 0–5% negative ease. |
| Sports Bra | BustUnderbustCupBand circumf.Impact level | Impact level (Low/Med/High) changes strap width and structure. |
| Leotard | Torso girth*Torso frontBustArmholeShoulder | Torso girth is THE most important. App applies automatic negative ease. |
| Unitard | All leotard fieldsInseamThighKneeCalf | 9 measurements. Minimum 50% stretch required in fabric. |
| Bodycon Dress | BustWaistHipsFront/back lengthWaist position | Waist position + hip position create the curved side seam. |
| Maxi Dress | Full lengthBustWaistHipsHem flare | Full length from shoulder to floor. Hem flare controls sweep. |
| Nightgown | BustWaistHipsLengthShoulder | Use 1–2" positive ease for sleep comfort. Bias-cut needs extra length. |
| Two-Piece Set | BustWaistHipsTop lengthBottom length | Top hem to bottom waist gap is a design choice — measure preference. |
| Shorts | WaistHipsThighRiseInseam | Rise + inseam together determine coverage. Bike shorts need negative ease. |
| Lingerie | BustUnderbustWaistHipsTorso girth | Torso girth for snap crotch placement. 10–15% negative ease applied. |
| Costume | All 9 fieldsTorso girthWaist pos.Skirt length | All measurements critical. Torso girth connects bodice to skirt. |
Frequently asked questions
Everything pattern makers, designers, and home sewists ask us
Is this a real sewing pattern I can cut fabric with? ▼
Yes. Every piece is calculated from your body measurements using professional parametric formulas. The pattern includes seam allowances, grain lines, notches, and fold marks — everything a professional pattern requires. Export as PNG, print at 100% scale, verify the 1" test square, and cut. Always make a muslin in inexpensive fabric before cutting your Blue Moon fabric.
What does the AI actually do in this app? ▼
There are two AI layers. The pattern drafting engine is parametric JavaScript algorithms that calculate piece dimensions from your measurements — not a language model. The second layer uses Anthropic Claude Sonnet (a large language model) to generate your personalized fit notes, sewing sequence, and fabric tip after the pattern is generated. The nesting optimizer is a bin-packing algorithm that runs three passes and picks the best result.
How do I measure torso girth and why does it matter? ▼
Torso girth is measured from your shoulder (at the bra strap line), down the front of your body, through your legs, and back up to the same shoulder on your back — the full circumference a leotard or one-piece swimsuit covers. It is the most important measurement for any garment covering the torso and crotch. If wrong, the garment pulls up or sags. Have someone help you measure accurately.
What is negative ease and when does the app apply it? ▼
Negative ease means the finished garment is smaller than your body measurements. Stretch fabrics expand when worn, so a snug garment stays in place. The Pattern Studio applies negative ease automatically for leotards, bikinis, lingerie, and bodysuits. The pieces will appear smaller than your measurements — this is correct and intentional. The AI notes tab explains the ease applied for your specific garment.
How accurate is the yardage estimate? ▼
Yardage is computed from the actual nested pattern pieces — it measures the total layout height on your selected fabric width, converts to yards, and rounds up to the nearest quarter yard. This is accurate for the measurements you entered. Add 10–15% extra for safety, especially for matching stripes/plaids, directional prints, or if you’re new to cutting stretch fabric.
Can I use this on my phone? ▼
Yes. The app is fully mobile-responsive with a tab-based layout. Drag pieces with your finger on the canvas. Voice commands work in Chrome for Android and Safari on iPhone/iPad (iOS 15+). For printing, email yourself the pattern from mobile to print on a desktop computer.
How does the 3-pass nesting optimizer work? ▼
The nesting algorithm is a shelf-packing variant of the bin-packing problem. It runs three independent passes: Pass 1 sorts pieces tallest-first, Pass 2 sorts by largest area, Pass 3 sorts widest-first. Each uses a shelf algorithm fitting pieces into horizontal rows, rotating 90° when it reduces waste (disabled for directional prints, sequins, velvet). The pass with smallest total fabric length wins. Most layouts achieve 75–90% efficiency vs 50–65% by hand.
What Blue Moon fabric should I use for my garment? ▼
After generating your pattern, the Stats tab shows the specific Blue Moon recommendation: Swimwear → Synergy Nylon Lycra (70 colors, chlorine-resistant). Activewear → Core Recycled Nylon Spandex (eco-certified). Dance/stage → Mystique Foiled Spandex or Solid Velvet. Sports bras → Matte Nylon Spandex Classic. Sleepwear → Satin Charmeuse or Stretch Lace. Couture → Sequin on Mesh plus Stretch Lace. All links go directly to the Blue Moon shop.
Add it to your Shopify store
Already live on bluemoonfabrics.com — steps to embed it elsewhere
🏆 Recommended: Custom Page Template
1
Create a page template in your theme
Shopify Admin → Online Store → Themes → ••• → Edit code → Templates → Add new template → page → name it pattern-maker
2
Paste the Pattern Studio HTML into the template
Download bluemoon-pattern-studio.html and paste all content into the template file. Save.
File: templates/page.pattern-maker.liquid
3
Create a Page and assign the template
Online Store → Pages → Add page → Title: Custom Pattern Maker → Template: page.pattern-maker → Save.
yourdomain.com/pages/custom-pattern-maker
4
Add to navigation
Online Store → Navigation → Main Menu → Add menu item → link to /pages/custom-pattern-maker
Marketing copy
Copy-paste ready for Instagram, TikTok, email, and your website
📷 Instagram / TikTok
“NEW ✦ Blue Moon Fabrics Custom Pattern Studio is live! Enter your measurements → AI drafts your pattern → we tell you exactly which fabric to buy and how much. Free. Works for bikinis, leotards, leggings, maxi dresses, costumes & more. Link in bio. #sewing #patternmaking #sewingcommunity #swimwear #dancewear #bluemoonfabrics”
💌 Email Newsletter
Subject: “Your custom sewing pattern, drafted by AI in 60 seconds ✦”
Enter your body measurements → choose your garment type → our AI drafts your pattern, optimizes the fabric layout, and tells you exactly what to buy and how many yards. Free, instant, 16 garment types. Try it →
Enter your body measurements → choose your garment type → our AI drafts your pattern, optimizes the fabric layout, and tells you exactly what to buy and how many yards. Free, instant, 16 garment types. Try it →
🌐 Website Banner
“✦ NEW: Custom Pattern Studio — AI-drafted sewing patterns from your exact measurements. Free to use. 16 garment types. Smart fabric layout. Try it now →”
Ready to draft your first pattern?
It takes under 2 minutes. Enter your measurements, click Generate, and your AI pattern maker gets to work.
